(410) 750-1599
This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
  • Kitchen Remodeling

    Robs Jobs has been installing Beautiful
 Kitchens, Baths and Basements for too many years to count. Whether it 
is a "kitchen on a budget" that you are thinking about or a "full blown
work of art", we can do it all. Read More
  • Snowplowing

    Ol' Man Winter will be back! The Almanac, the meteorologists, and even the wooly bear caterpillars predict
another very rough and snowy winter. Read More
  • Corian Counter Tops

    Robs Jobs has another big secret that most folks don't know about,
that's right, we supply and install Corian, America's number one solid
surface counter top by Dupont. We also supply and install Granite, Silestone and Soapstone. Read More
  • Hardwood Flooring

  • Custom Building

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Painting Exterior/Interior Cutter Coves

Back Priming:
When replacing or repairing any exterior wood trim or siding, back priming is essential to a long lasting job. Besides the rain that strikes the surface of exterior wood members, moisture is present on all sides of the wood and must be considered. Prime all six sides (top, bottom, front, back ends) of a board before installation. Moisture will still migrate through the wood but at a more even rate. This may seem time consuming, but it really is a time saver. Siding and trim will stay straighter, last longer and hold a finish better by making this small effort.

 

Caulking Clapboard:
When preparing to paint the exterior, one important step is caulking any cracks. Cracks where different materials meet need to be caulked, as well as the cracks where trim meets siding. One crack that should not be caulked is found along the bottom edge of clapboard or other types of lap siding. In spite of our best efforts, moisture gets behind siding. Sealing the crack at the bottom of siding boards seals in the moisture, which in turn causes early paint failure.

 

Kilz:
Long after the roof is fixed or the plumbing repair has been made, a reminder can be found: the water stain. These pesky stains defy cleaning and even repainting. To finally finish the job, apply a stain sealer-blocker before repainting. These products are usually fast drying and will stop stain bleed-through. Spray cans are great for small jobs, and there is no cleanup. Larger jobs might require brushing or rolling. Many of these products are effective on other stains as well.

 

Lead Paint Hazard:
Lead contamination is a very real hazard in many home repair projects. Most homes built before the late 1970s have lead in some paint. The sawing, sanding and scraping of materials that have lead-containing paint creates the hazard. Lead dust or chips inhaled or ingested present serious health risks. Infants and children are especially susceptible! If you live in an older house, have your children checked for lead exposure. Educate yourself about household hazards. When in doubt, seek help.

 

Masking Tape:
Here is a painting tip that might save a novice painter a lot of frustration. Typically, homeowner painters mask off areas that they don't want get paint on, such as windows, baseboards and molding. Don't use regular masking tape! These tapes are too sticky, and the adhesive is quickly transferred to the window or woodwork. If left on more than a day or so, the biggest part of the paint job will be removing the tape. Look for painter's tape at the local hardware or home center. This tape is made specifically for painting. The paper is heavier and the adhesive less sticky. This tape costs more, but if you've ever had to remove stubborn masking tape you'll be glad to pay for painter's tape.

 

Oil or Latex?:
When preparing to repaint, it is useful to know what type paint is already on the surface. Typically it is best to repaint with a similar paint. Often oil-based paint will go over latex-based paint, but usually latex over oil is not recommended. Walls in most houses are probably latex, but when it comes to the woodwork a determination is harder to make. One way to solve the mystery is by rubbing the painted surface with a rag soaked in mineral spirits. Typically latex paint will come off on the rag, but not oil-based paint.

 

Painting Mitt:
When painting small, narrow objects like railings and wrought iron work, a paintbrush isn't always the best tool. It's too time-consuming to paint all the narrow surfaces and edges with a brush. Professional painters bring out a painting mitt for this type of work. The mitten-like mitt fits on the hand and is dipped into the paint. The paint is applied by hand. You can cover the whole diameter of a round railing in one pass. For small jobs, or if you don't feel like investing in a professional mitt, try this: Put on a latex glove, put a brown jersey glove over it and get to work. The results will not be top notch, but it's good enough for many projects. When the job is done, grab the latex glove by the cuff, turn it inside out as you pull it off, and dispose of it properly.

 

Painting Natural Woodwork:
As styles and tastes change, so does the way we paint and decorate our homes. Natural woodwork and cabinets come and go in style, and often people wish to paint a surface previously left natural. Proper preparation will help insure successful results. The most common mistake made is painting over a natural finish that has not been made ready for paint. The results may look good, but over time the paint will easily chip off. The goal is to apply a new finish that will bond to the old. Sanding or stripping the old finish to bare wood is possible but usually impractical. Sanding a surface to take the gloss off it will work in situations where the surface won't receive much wear and tear. For best results, start with "liquid sandpaper," which will soften the existing finish. Prime with a bonding primer and finish with one or two topcoats of paint.

 

Painting New Wood:
Home repair projects are sometimes done on an installment plan. Time and money constraints may cause a project to stretch out. Some repairs can be left in an unfinished state with no consequence, and some cannot. When new wood is installed on the exterior it is tempting to wait and paint it next weekend. Don't make this mistake. Unpainted wood left exposed to ultraviolet light (sunlight) will quickly degrade, permanently affecting its ability to hold paint. The best course here is priming the wood before installation. Taking time to prime exterior wood on all sides really saves time in the short and long run.

 

Paint Removal:
Work on older homes often brings up the question of paint removal. To restore woodwork to like-new condition or exterior siding and trim to a paintable surface, paint removal is typically required. Basic methods include sanding and scraping, chemical stripping and heat removal. Each technique has its advantages and disadvantages. Sanding and scraping are labor intensive and may result in clouds of dust containing toxic lead. Chemical stripping is faster, but working with toxic chemicals and fumes can be unhealthful. Heat stripping works well under certain conditions, but lead fumes and fire hazard must be considered. One other option cannot be overlooked - replacement. Many times, replacement of old woodwork makes the most sense.

 

Pantyhose Paint Strainer:
This is really a painting tip. Paint left standing in the can often becomes skinned over. This happens most often with oil-based paint. The paint underneath is still good, but in the process of removing the skin, small lumps get in to the paint. No amount of stirring will dissolve these lumps, and they can ruin a paint job. The solution is to strain the paint. Commercial strainers are available, but why buy something you already have? Secure an old pair of pantyhose and strain the paint through a section of them. There is no cleanup -- just throw them away.

 

Preventing Paint Drips:
The object of painting is to put paint on a wall or other surface and nowhere else. This simple charge is not so easy to accomplish. There are many tools and methods that can be employed when trying to do a neat paint job. Here is one more for the arsenal. When working out of a gallon paint can, place it on a lid off a five-gallon drywall bucket. The rim on the lid will contain any paint that runs down the outside of the can and most drips will land on the lid rather the surrounding surface.

 

Spackle vs. Mud:
Spackle or mud? While both terms refer to finishing drywall, there is a difference. Mud, officially known as joint compound, is intended for taping and finishing drywall. Spackle is primarily used to patch small holes. Spackle is a heavier-bodied compound that would be difficult to use for finishing drywall. Mud is often used to patch drywall, but it shrinks more than spackle and may require a second application.

 

Sponge Worthy:
Applying a finish to a surface is a common task around the house. It may be paint on walls or woodwork or polyurethane on the floor. Regardless of the project, preparation is at least half the job. A clean, dry surface free of loose debris is essential. Sanding is typically involved in the preparation either to smooth the surface and remove old finish or to give the surface "tooth," which helps the new finish bond to the old. There are as many ways to sand as there are projects. Consider a sanding sponge the next time you are working on non-flat surfaces. Sanding sponges are literally sponges with grit bound to their surface. They work great when prepping woodwork as they conform to the profile of the molding. Look for sanding sponges at the hardware store, home center, or paint store.

 

Storing Paint:
When you are done painting, make sure your paint can has the lid back on tightly by tapping it with a hammer. Even if your paint has the color on the label, use masking tape or white labels that you can get at any drugstore or grocery store and write the color of the paint with permanent marker and put this on the side of the can near the top. Don't write it on the top, because then you have to take down everything to see it, and don't put that label near the bottom of the can, or it can get soaked off if the can gets wet. Put on a second label if you need to know which room you used the paint in. For example, your first label would say "light peach" and the second label would say "hallway." This will come in handy when you need to get to that can for a quick touchup. Don't store your paint in sunlight or next to a heat source, such as the water heater or furnace. Dispose of old paint, or paint thinner, by putting it in a can and sealing it, then checking to see where you can take hazardous chemicals to dispose of them in your area. Never pour thinner out onto the ground, and never pour it down a drain.

 

Wallpaper Stripping:
Rehabbing old homes and not-so-old homes often involves stripping wallpaper. This tedious job is universally disliked. Although wallpaper can be papered or painted over, eventually it has to come off. You can rent steamers, but they dump large amounts of moisture into the house. Try the spray-and-scrape method first. Using either a small hand-misting bottle or a garden sprayer containing hot water, saturate the area to be removed. Several applications might be required. When the paper is well soaked, start scraping with a wide putty knife. Patience is the key. Keep the unscraped areas saturated. If the wallpaper has been painted, a small hand tool that perforates the paper may be needed. The perforations allow the water to get to the wallpaper. For particularly tough jobs, you can buy stripping solutions at most paint stores. Rumor has it that fabric softener added to the water also works well.

Affordable Corian Countertops
Bath Remodels
Cabinet Installation
Carpentry
Card in the Yard!
Ceiling Fans Installed
CeramicTile Installation
Concrete & Sidewalks
Decks Built
Drywall-Install/Repair

Electrical
Fences Installed
Furniture Assembly
Garage Door Installation
Garbage Disposals
General Repairs
Gutter Cleaning
Gutter Covers
Hardwood Flooring
Honey Do List Completion
Kitchen Remodeling
Motion Detectors
Painting-Exterior/Interior
Plumbing
Pressure Washing/Sealing
Real Estate Listing Preparation
Roofs-Shingled/Repaired
Rotten wood & trim replacement
Seamless Gutter Systems
Sliding Glass Doors
Snowplowing
Storm Door Installation
Stump Grinding
Tenant Clean-up & Repairs
Vanity Tops Replaced
Vinyl Flooring
Window Treatment Installation